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The Tokyo Olympics organizing committee’s proposal to including surfing in the 2020 Summer Games gets William Finnegan anxious. His Op-Ed piece in the NY Times, “Surf for Love, Not For Gold” is a keeper.
Finnegan’s recent book Barbarian Days is a masterful piece of writing, a paean to the surfing life. “People surf for love. The pastime lends itself to obsession,” he testifies.
The Op-Ed piece and the book will appeal to surfers and arm-chair athletes as well. I have attached notes from Barbarian Days for those whose time does not allow them to read a > 450 page tome. (Download Barbarian Days by William Finnegan.)
Rabbi Hanniel Levenson, 32, is the associate rabbi at the Jewish Center of the Hamptons. The center has long sought to integrate religion with vacation, offering Friday night Shabbat services on the beach. This summer, Rabbi Levenson went a few steps further.
When the rabbi learned that two brothers in his Hebrew class were avid surfers back home in Pacific Palisades, Calif., he approached them.
They worked out a deal. One afternoon a week, the students would diligently study Hebrew; one afternoon, they would ride waves. The surf sessions would be open to young and old, male and female — “anyone who wants to get out on the ocean and talk about God,” Rabbi Levenson said.
Nicknamed the Chosen One by his peers, Jay Adams in the 1970s pioneered an outlaw image and new approaches to shateboarding that was at the time associated with roller skating. Taking his skateboard down steep hills and up the walls of an empty swimming pool — and, finally, over the walls’ edges — Adams helped usher in the aerial, or vert, style of skateboarding.
Adams died on a surfing trip to Mexico on August 15. 2014 at the age of 53.
The NY Times had two interesting articles about him in the August 18 issue.
Terry Tracy, model for "The Big Kahuna," was an easygoing, fun-loving surfer who inspired the "Gidget"
movies and television series. He helped make surfing an international
sport — in the process becaming the embodiment of the cool alternative
lifestyle of sunglass-wearing beach bums. Tracy, aka "Tubesteak," died on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 at his home
in San Clemente, Calif. He was 77.